My First Solo Journey to Spiti Valley

This trip was a dream for a very long time. Spiti Valley, cold deserts, tough terrains, extreme weather, Chandratal, monasteries, and everything that comes with it. I finally decided to plan it solo.

Solo travel is fun in its own way. It gives fast pace and peace of mind at the same time. But this was different. I was traveling solo to one of the most remote parts of India, alone, and that too for the first time. I do not remember ever leaving Rajasthan for a solo road trip before. This journey was going to be almost 1000 km away from home.

Preparation Phase

I started preparing at home. I had long conversations with Gemini about weather conditions, survival, what to pack, and everything in between. I also watched a lot of YouTube videos from different creators.

I noted everything down in my notebook. From gear to pack, food items, and even quick cook recipes.

I started gathering things. Bought minimum new items and borrowed some gear. This was going to be a solo road trip where I planned to sleep inside the car, cook my own food most of the time, and basically do overlanding.

I removed the rear seat base of my Jimny and folded the seats flat. I placed two pillows in the boot on the left side. The left side became my sleeping area with more than 6 feet length. The right side behind the driver seat became my luggage area.

I carried my basic travel items like clothes, medicines, toiletries, and some gear in a suitcase. Cooking utensils and stove were kept in a hard plastic picnic box. Cooking items like Maggi, dal, masala, papad, oil, etc were kept in another large plastic container.

I borrowed a really good sleeping bag, Jimny sleeping mat, a chair, oxygen cylinders, and butane cans from my cousin. Thankfully, I never had to use the oxygen cylinders. I could not use the chair either.

I bought a changing tent and a portable bidet from Amazon, just in case.

I bought a camping toilet, pepper spray, and a folding shovel from Delhi on the way.

Day 1: Jaipur to Zirakpur

I kickstarted my journey from Jaipur on November 1, 2025. First stop was Delhi to buy the items mentioned above. Otherwise, I would have taken the Ambala Expressway.

The whole NCR region had extremely bad smoke in the air. No blue sky at all. I stepped out of the car and could not breathe properly. My throat was burning. I could not even turn on the AC properly because Jimny’s recirculation mode is not very effective.

I reached Zirakpur Haldirams on November 1. That was Day 1.

This stop was not planned. Actually, no stop on this trip was preplanned. It was already past 10 PM and I had to stop somewhere to sleep.

I quickly set up my bed inside the car. Bottom layer was the Jimny camping mat which was around 2 feet wide and 6 feet long. Above that, I placed a cotton folding mattress from home, then a blanket. I also carried two pillows.

The entire setup took less than 10 minutes.

I did not cook anything that night. My mother had given me a large steel box filled with fried pooris and dry aloo sabzi. I ate that and also bought a sweet from Haldirams.

Day 2: Zirakpur to Badhal

I had a good night’s sleep. Woke up fresh and my body was not tired at all. I went to the toilet inside the mall. Clean toilets were the primary reason I parked my car and slept here.

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Y8ks2fWPyfx5vD5U7

I left and continued driving. Soon Shimla came and I crossed it. Crossed Kufri as well.

I had planned to stay in a hotel this night so that I could take a proper bath the next day.

Around 6 to 7 PM, I reached Badhal and stopped at a hotel. It was a good hotel.

Remember the pooris? I still had a lot of them. My family had also prepared dry dal which only needed boiling water. I cooked it. It was okay but filling.

Later, I drank milk and went to sleep.

Day 3: Badhal to Nako

I left the hotel feeling fresh after bathing. Less than an hour into the drive, I was listening to Hanuman Chalisa when I saw an army personnel stopping me for a lift.

Who would not help the Indian Army?

I told him that there was very little knee room because of the bed setup behind the passenger seat. He smiled and said he was used to sitting in tight spaces.

We talked a lot on the way. He shared stories from his army life. We stopped at Kinnaur Gate and clicked photos. Later, we stopped at a small town where he bought vegetables for his teammates.

I dropped him near his army truck. Such a gentleman. I hope to meet him again on my next Spiti trip.

I skipped Chitkul and went directly towards Nako. I skipped Kalpa as well. Kalpa is definitely worth it for Kinner Kailash views, but I kept it for next time.

On the way, I stopped at Taranda Mata temple and paid my respects.

The views now started changing. Raw nature. The real beginning of the journey. I clicked many photos on the way.

I reached Khab Sangam and saw the confluence of the Spiti and Sutlej rivers. After that, I reached Nako.

I was also carrying my Insta360 X3 and shot most of my videos using that camera.

I first visited Nako Monastery and then Nako Lake. The sun was about to set and I needed to find a good spot to overland and cook food.

I went to Nako helipad to camp, but before that, I visited Green Tara Homestay and booked a room for one hour the next morning so that I could freshen up, bathe, and have tea.

At Nako helipad, the wind was very strong and the cold was intense. Still, I set up my camping table and stove and cooked Maggi quickly. I fed some food to local dogs as well.

The weather was becoming extreme. The wind was shaking the stove flames. I skipped drinking milk due to the cold.

I quickly washed the utensils, set up my bed just like the previous night, and slept peacefully. There was another car camping there too, an Alto.

Day 4: Nako to Kaza

I woke up fresh and went to the homestay I had booked. The aunty there was very kind. She gave me two buckets of hot water for bathing and even offered me almonds. I had good tea and left.

Now came Chango and the famous Moonland. The loops here were next level. I have not been to Gata Loops, but I imagine Chango Loops would be equally steep.

I stopped near a Mani stone pile. It was the first time I saw something like this. I did not know about it earlier and had never seen it mentioned in any videos. These are holy Buddhist prayer stones and you are supposed to pass them from the left side.

At Moonland, the terrain truly looked like the moon. The wind blast was extreme. It is that time of the year when strong winds come just before snowfall.

Spiti officially started from Sumdo Checkpost.

I reached Tabo and visited all the monasteries inside the complex. The place was extremely peaceful. I felt like sitting there for hours and meditating. It was very quiet and dark. You cannot use lights as they damage the wall paintings.

I shot some good 360 footage and left for Kaza.

Dhankar Monastery was on the way, but I skipped it for next time.

I stopped at a riverbed where a Traveller vehicle was parked. I spoke to a young tourist who said it was commendable that I was traveling solo. He told me his group trip cost around 20k from Delhi to Delhi, but they could not stop wherever they wanted and had to follow a fixed schedule.

That is when I realized the freedom of solo travel again.

I reached Kaza around 3 or 4 PM and booked Zostel after arrival. I could have visited Hikkim, Langza, and Komic the same day, but I was tired and decided to rest.

Dinner at Zostel was good. I only used my stove to heat water for my flasks. I was cooking very less now due to extreme weather and constant movement.

I was the only person in my 6 bed dorm.

Day 5: Key, Chicham, Langza, Komic, Hikkim

I woke up early, as I had been doing throughout the trip. Usually waking up between 6 and 7 AM and leaving before 8 AM.

I left for Key Monastery first. The hills were spectacular, covered with snow. There was no snow where I stood, but the views were unreal.

At Key Monastery, I explored every section, including the kitchen area at the top. The monks were very kind and peaceful. They were having tea and offered me some. It tasted like Kashmiri Kahwa and was very good.

I learned that one can stay at Key Monastery for as low as 500 per night and eat the same food as the monks. I felt that I should have stayed here instead of Zostel.

I shot a 360 video, bought some souvenirs, and left.

Next stop was Chicham Bridge. It was massive and very high. You could hear the river flowing deep below with an echo.

Since I had the Jimny, I skipped the food stalls and took an off road track to the top viewpoint. I was the only person there. Clicked many photos and left.

I then reached Langza first and saw the giant Buddha statue. After that, Komic and then Hikkim. Komic to Hikkim was full off road, and Hikkim to Kaza was also off road.

All three places are at around 4400 meters above sea level. I kept monitoring altitude using my Apple Watch 8.

At Hikkim, I bought postcards. I knew they would probably never get delivered, but I still sent two with hope.

On the way down, I was stopped by Himachal Police. There were around 6 to 8 officers.

They told me they would thoroughly check the vehicle and make a video. I cooperated fully. They asked if I had anything illegal. I told them I do not even smoke or drink.

They checked my glovebox and my entire setup. They were surprised to see a solo traveler with such an overlanding setup. They wished me good luck ahead. That is Himachali police for you.

Decision Time at Kaza

I reached Kaza again around 3 PM.

I had two options. Stay another night and go to Manali via Kunzum Pass next day, or take a U turn.

Chandratal was also on this route, but it is closed in November.

I spent over half an hour talking to locals, homestays, and hostels in Kaza, Batal, Losar, and Manali. Some said roads were open. Some said they were open only for 4x4 till that day but now closed due to snowfall.

I tried contacting BRO but could not find a number. I decided not to take a risk and took a U turn. It was around 4 PM.

Return Journey

I started driving back towards Jaipur via Shimla route. I was driving at a good pace. Even locals do not drive that fast on these roads.

Jimny absorbed everything effortlessly. I overtook most vehicles on the way. I wish someone had captured that drive with a drone. I do not know where that energy came from.

I initially planned to stay at Nako. I reached Sumdo Checkpost, had some bad coffee, and was stopped by police for entry.

They asked if I could give a lift to a girl till Chango. I agreed and dropped her.

Chango Loops felt much tougher this time. Steeper curves and steep inclines were straining the engine.

It started snowing.

I reached Nako but did not stop. I felt I could drive more. I decided to stop at Kalpa.

After crossing Kinnaur Gate, I stopped at a restaurant and met a group of young guys from my hometown Jaipur. We talked and I shared my experience.

I left and had dinner somewhere else.

Around 1 AM, I stopped at Duttnagar near a Nexa showroom beside a Jio petrol pump and slept in my car.

Day 6: Back Home

I woke up at 6 AM, got fresh at the petrol pump bathroom, and left.

It was a long day. I had crossed Kalpa the previous night and could see the Kinner Kailash range and the holy peak. Next time, for sure.

After driving for around 18 hours, I reached home at about 2 AM.

Total distance covered was around 2200 km. Spent around 14.5k on petrol and about 5k on everything else.

Note: I already had a FASTag annual pass.